How to Check Your Irrigation System Before Summer
Check Your Drip Irrigation Now — Before Summer Catches You Off Guard
A practical, zone-by-zone guide to inspecting, diagnosing, and fixing your drip system before the heat arrives
Every summer, somewhere in my garden, a plant goes mysteriously downhill. The leaves yellow at the edges, growth slows, and nothing seems to help — until I trace the drip line back and find a clogged emitter, a kinked tubing run, or a head that's been knocked sideways by a stray trowel.
The irrigation system is one of those things you set up and then trust implicitly, until you shouldn't. In Zone 9, where summers can mean weeks of 95–105°F temperatures with no rainfall, a malfunctioning drip system isn't just an inconvenience — it can mean the loss of plants you've been growing for years.
May is the perfect time to do a full audit. The temperatures are still manageable, the plants are in active growth, and you have time to fix problems before they become crises. Here's exactly how I do it.
The Full Drip Audit — Step by Step
Run Each Zone and Watch It
The most important thing you can do is actually activate each irrigation zone and stand there and watch it. Not look at your phone and half-watch it — actually observe every emitter and head. What you're looking for:
| What You See | What It Means | What To Do |
|---|---|---|
| No water from an emitter | Clogged or disconnected emitter | Replace the emitter — they cost pennies |
| Gushing water from one spot | Disconnected tubing or blown fitting | Turn off zone, push tubing back onto barbed fitting firmly |
| Water pooling at the surface | Emitter flow rate too high for soil | Replace with lower-flow emitter (0.5–1 GPH instead of 2 GPH) |
| Misting or spraying sideways | Damaged micro-spray head | Unscrew and replace micro-spray head |
| Entire zone has low pressure | Filter clogged or pressure regulator issue | Clean inline filter; check pressure regulator setting |
Check the Filter and Pressure Regulator
Most drip systems have an inline filter (usually at the connection to the water supply) and a pressure regulator. Over a season, the filter mesh catches sediment and can clog enough to reduce flow throughout the entire system. This is often the cause when every emitter seems a bit sluggish.
Unscrew the filter housing, remove the mesh screen, and rinse it thoroughly under running water. If it's very gunky, soak it for 10 minutes in a 1:10 vinegar-water solution. Reassemble and recheck the system flow.
Check Every Emitter by Hand
While the zone is running, go down the tubing line and feel each emitter. You should be able to feel a steady drip or flow from each one. Emitters that feel bone dry when the zone is running are clogged — these are the silent killers in a drip system.
Clogged emitters are usually caused by mineral buildup or debris. The fix: just pull them out and push in a new one. A bag of 25 replacement emitters costs a few dollars and could save a plant worth far more.
Here are some items I depend on to fix my irrigation issues
Rachio Sprinkler Controller
Shop Smart Controller →Drip Emitters
Shop Emitters →Soaker hose
Shop Soaker hose→Adjust Emitter Placement for Plant Growth
Plants grow. The emitter you placed at the root zone of a rose last year may now be delivering water to the outer drip line instead of the root zone — or it may be positioned under dense foliage that you've since added. Walk each bed and make sure emitters are positioned correctly relative to current plant size.
As a general rule: place emitters 4–6 inches from the main stem of a plant, not directly at the base (which can cause crown rot) and not at the leaf tips (where feeder roots don't reach in many plants).
Update the Watering Schedule for Warmer Temps
A schedule that worked in March will not work in June. As temperatures rise, most Zone 9 plants need significantly more water. A drip system running 20 minutes every other day in spring may need to run 35–40 minutes daily by July. Program your controller now in stages so you're ahead of the curve:
| Month | Typical Frequency | Typical Duration |
|---|---|---|
| May | Every 2 days | 20–25 min |
| June | Daily or every 2 days | 25–35 min |
| July–August | Daily | 35–45 min |
| September | Every 2 days | 25–30 min |
These are guidelines — adjust based on your specific soil type, plant types, and microclimate. Sandy soil needs more frequent shorter runs; clay soil benefits from longer, less frequent deep soaking.
Check for Leaks Along the Main Line
Walk the full length of your mainline tubing while the system is running. Look for wet spots in the soil between emitters — these indicate a hole or disconnected fitting somewhere in the line. Fixes are easy: a goof plug (a small barbed cap) for unwanted holes, or a barbed coupler to rejoin disconnected sections.
📋 Pre-Summer Drip System Checklist
- Run each zone and observe for full 5 minutes
- Check all emitters by hand — replace any that aren't flowing
- Clean inline filter and inspect pressure regulator
- Check for leaks along mainline tubing
- Reposition emitters as needed for current plant size
- Update watering schedule for summer temperatures
- Apply mulch to conserve soil moisture
- Test rain sensor / smart controller if applicable
- Stock up on replacement emitters, couplers, and goof plugs
Need a New Hose Reel or Outdoor Watering Tool?
Giraffe Tools makes excellent retractable hose reels and outdoor tools that hold up through Zone 9 summers. Worth every penny for garden maintenance.
Shop Giraffe Tools →An hour spent on irrigation now is worth weeks of worry later. The garden gives back exactly what you put into it — and a reliable water delivery system is the most important infrastructure you can invest in as a Zone 9 gardener.
Once your system checks out, you can go back to simply enjoying the garden rather than troubleshooting it in 100-degree heat. That's the goal. 🌿
— From my garden to yours
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